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L'Ambroisie Restaurant Review: When Jacques Chirac invited Bill and Hillary Clinton here, he was inviting them to the ultimate in classic French cuisine. With its inlaid stone and parquet floors, book-lined shelves and sumptuous Aubusson tapestries adorning honey-hued walls, L'Ambroisie has the feel of a beautiful private home, of which Danielle Pacaud is the attentive hostess. Don't expect to see much of Bernard Pacaud, though. He prefers the sizzling sounds of the kitchen to the applause of an appreciative public. His concise carte is supplemented by a few surprises du jour: marjolaine de foie gras (layered goose liver, truffles, and celery---divine!); flash-cooked sea bass with rosemary-scented artichokes; a majestic poularde en demi-deuil. Some may say he's lacking in inspiration, that he's not overflowing with surprises, but if ever there was a master craftsman in the old-time sense of the word, he is it: tradition at its glorious and soaring heights, tradition which follows the rules that gave French cuisine its name. Each dish is flawlessly finished. Faultless cellar, too, run by Pierre Le Mouillac, an exemplary maître d'hôtel-sommelier. In keeping with the deluxe atmosphere, there is unfortunately no set-price menu. Noblesse oblige!