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L'Ambroisie Restaurant Review: This paragon of classic French cuisine has hosted François Hollande and Barack Obama (as well as Jacques Chirac and Bill and Hillary Clinton before that). With its inlaid stone and parquet floors, book-lined shelves and sumptuous Aubusson tapestries adorning honey-hued walls, L'Ambroisie has the feel of a beautiful private home. Bernard Pacaud prefers the sizzling sounds of the kitchen to the applause of an appreciative public. His son, Mathieu Pacaud (Hexagone, Histoires), joins him at the helm. The concise carte is supplemented by a few surprises du jour: marjolaine de foie gras (layered goose liver, truffles and celery --- divine!); flash-cooked sea bass with rosemary-scented artichokes; a majestic poularde en demi-deuil. Some may say he's lacking in inspiration, that he's not overflowing with surprises, but if ever there was a master craftsman in the old-time sense of the word, he is it: tradition at its glorious and soaring heights, tradition which follows the rules that gave French cuisine its name. Each dish is flawlessly finished. The wine cellar is faultless cellar. In keeping with the deluxe atmosphere, there is unfortunately no set-price menu. Noblesse oblige!