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L'Espadon Restaurant Review: L'ESPADON IS TEMPORARILY CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS UNTIL 2014 L'Espadon has been one of the temples of the Parisian gastronomy since its opening in 1898 and Auguste Escoffier’s presence in its kitchen. The plush dining room of the Ritz Paris, dotted with mirrors, gilts, velvet and a trompe l’œil painting, suits the subtle dishes of Michel Roth, who has been at the helm for more than two decades. With his second Arnaud Faye, he delivers a seasonal menu based upon fine products and a perfect mastering of the classical techniques. The seared foie gras served with a horseradish consommé with small vegetables is an introduction to the skill of Roth, which is further demonstrated with the delicate and complex preparation of a frayed pheasant on a bed of red cabbage and fried vegetables. The caramelized puff pastry filled with vanilla ice cream and coated with a warm chocolate sauce is an appropriate classical conclusion. The service is distinguished without ostentation and the wine cellar is filled with exceptional vintages.