Named after a coveted variety of French olive, Lucques offers inspired rustic Mediterranean cuisine with strong California influences. And it's served in an idyllic setting: the former carriage house---transformed by designer Barbara Barry---of silent film star Harold Lloyd. Dine inside in one of the booths near the fireplace, or outside, on a lovely patio where the walls are covered with climbing vines. Chef Suzanne Goin, who clearly picked up some valuable knowledge working at places like Campanile and Chez Panisse, utilizes a wealth of intriguing vegetables from local farmers markets to produce a contemporary Mediterranean cuisine as clean as the stylish setting. Some representative starters from Goin's regularly-changing menu include veal sweetbreads with grilled cornbread, wild mushrooms and Pedro Ximénez; and fried squash blossoms with Manchego cheese, Marcona almonds and green romesco. Among the entrées, you may find stuffed Jidori chicken with hand-cut noodles, pancetta, asparagus and morels; braised beef short ribs with horseradish cream; or Alaskan halibut with black rice, sugar snaps, kumquat sambal and carrot-coconut broth. For dessert, consider the buttermilk panna cotta with strawberries and pink grapefruit or a satisfying French cheese plate. You may also experience Goin's work at nearby sister restaurants A.O.C. (where the focus is on small plates) and Tavern, in Brentwood.
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