 Melisse Restaurant Review: Mélisse has distinguished itself as the sole top-end French gastronomic experience in Los Angeles. The elegant dining room is filled with beautiful beige chairs, and a purplish-smoke tone shades the walls. Everything achieves a high level of quality, from the service overseen by maître d's to the food presented by chef Josiah Citrin and his culinary team, including chef de cuisine Ken Takayama. Being half French (on his father's side), born and raised in Venice (California) and partially trained in Paris, Citrin has integrated the two cultures to create his own modern melody with the choicest produce and herbs from the famous Santa Monica farmers market. A meal might start with an amuse-bouche procession of three or four carefully created bites, followed up with a first course of lobster bolognese with fresh cappellini, black truffles and basil. Liberty duck breast and confit might be complemented by turnips, roasted grapes, watercress and pine. Meanwhile, the great French restaurant tradition of tableside carving is carried on with dishes like the côte de boeuf for two. The format is prix-fixe, with menus of four courses ($125) or ten courses ($150), plus the chef's "carte blanche" menu ($250) and a special tasting designed for vegetarians ($125). Wines can be paired for an additional cost. You'd be remiss to pass on the wonderfully well-stocked cheese cart. Desserts might include a play on "Cracker Jack" with salted popcorn sherbet, peanut butter crunch and caramel water. Your voyage through the comprehensive wine list will be made easier by sommelier Brian Kalliel, who will not only pour a Grand Cru Classé from the comprehensive list, but also suggest something that's fun and a good value.
|