THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED ONEc.p.s.

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED ONEc.p.s. Restaurant Review:

ONEc.p.s. HAS CLOSED. What was once the stodgiest of hotel dining rooms in New York has been transformed into a casually chic and modern restaurant by Adam Tihany. At first glance, it is near impossible to believe that ONEc.p.s---the name comes from its Central Park South location---inhabits the same room that was once The Edwardian Room. A closer look reveals the heavy brass chandeliers are now covered by the brightest of red oversized shades and the ornate molding and wood paneling have simply been lightened by a coat of paint. This new incarnation is the work of restaurateur Alan Stillman of Smith & Wollensky, The Post House, Park Avenue Café and others, and David Burke, his corporate executive chef. The result is inconclusive. While the room is light and airy and the sidewalk view of Central Park and Central Park South is one of the city's most appealing, the hodgepodge of ill-conceived dishes are harder to accept. Most of the adventurous dishes---macaroni and cheese made with Raclette, crisped duck with candied orange, and chicken wings stuffed with crab---are better left alone. More traditional offerings like shrimp bisque and steak frites are safer bets. We think real New Yorkers may leave this one for the tourists.