THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pazo

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Pazo Restaurant Review:

Where are we? The décor is as pleasant as it is intriguing but when you glance at the dark paneling, the moucharabiehs (delicately carved wood grids separating the rooms), the oriental carpets, and the lotus-shaped chandeliers, the question pops into your mind: what part of the world are we visiting? At any rate, this exotic fantasy stems from the imagination of the architect who revisited the beauties of the vast territories comprised between Morocco and Thailand and who harmoniously synthesized their decorative highlights in this New York eatery. This mysterious and attractive setting is, or should be, the introduction to a spicy and exciting fare. Patricia Yeo, who garnered laurels at AZ where the trend is rather towards the Far East, is in command of the Mediterranean coloration of Pazo, which constitutes a serious undertaking. Reconciling the tender thyme and lavender fragrances of Provence with the potent taste of harissa and cumin of North Africa is not an easy proposition and the task is arduous for any chef to draft an entire and authentic Mediterranean menu, because of the antagonism of the flavors and of the traditions. The starters borrow from Spain at least in names, to Lebanon with the mezes, and to Italy, but are not convincingly Mediterranean. Some of the main dishes are sprinkled with North African additions. Is fiery harissa a reasonable companion for foie gras? On the other hand, a touch of tapenade does not hurt the sun-dried tomatoes that accompany the sautéed cod, but this rapprochement does not make either a true Mediterranean dish. There is an ambiguity with this appellation that the chef has to overcome with her own interpretation of these diverse gastronomic cultures. The strongest point of Pazo for now consists of its wine list. Wine has been produced for millenniums around the Mediterranean basin and it is always a pleasure to rediscover these flowery and powerful wines. Some incredible values can be found on the list such as a well-balanced Côtes-du-Roussillon réserve.