Pylos Restaurant Review: The clay pots hanging from the ceiling in this modernly rustic spot seem to pour conviviality on its patrons, who sit cheerfully chatting among whitewashed and brick walls, wood floors and snug, pillow-lined benches. They've welcomed Pylos, the East Village's only Greek restaurant, with open arms---and mouths. Consulting chef Diane Kochilas, noted for her cookbooks Meze and The Glorious Foods of Greece, has created an accessible menu with distinctive flourishes. Sun-dried tomatoes add tangy pizzazz to poached salmon rounds, a touch of cinnamon lends a perky twist to the soft pastitisio (pasta layered with meat), and a hint of grape leaves gives a decidedly Mediterranean thumbprint to the light as air meatballs. The tell-tale sign of a good Greek restaurant, however, is the octopus, and Pylos's tender, charred tentacles, braised in a tomato-olive sauce, pass the test with flying colors. Combined with a big, fat Greek wine list, the whole experience adds up to an uncommon, moderately-priced treat. It's no wonder everyone is smiling.
|