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Restaurant Lasserre Restaurant Review: What's old has been made new again with Restaurant Lasserre, which features a freshened décor that's befitting of this bastion of French gastronomy. The visionary René Lasserre purchased and transformed this space near the Champs-Élysées after the close of the 1937 Paris International Exposition. With its essence of romance, and a ceiling that on clear and balmy nights would open up on the star-studded sky of Paris, this sumptuous mansion became a magnet for the glitterati. The two-story establishment seats 70, with a dining room upstairs and private rooms below. Many illustrious chefs started their apprenticeships here, including Marc Haeberlin, Guy Savoy, Michel Rostang and Jacques Lameloise. (Former chef Adrien Trouilloud has left the restaurant.) Longtime favorites are still served, such as the André Malraux squab and the macaroni stuffed with truffle and foie gras. We like the citrus fruit-marinated sea bream with kombu seaweed and the pie holding foie gras and sweetbread, with pickles in veal juice. Roasted and beechwood-smoked lobster is a treat, artfully cooked. Consider the stewed poultry as well, in demi-deuil fashion (filled with poultry mousseline and truffle and served with supreme sauce). Desserts are delicate and tasteful; diners might encounter a Guanaja chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream or citrus fruits perfumed with coconut. The wine cellar, besides housing the grand crus de rigueur, welcomes less prestigious but worthwhile vintages from the Rhône Valley, the Loire Valley, and from the up-and-coming area of Languedoc. If you consider yourself an über foodie, you can't pass up a visit.