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Restaurant Lasserre Restaurant Review: CHEF CHRISTOPHE MORET HAS DEPARTED LASSERRE - What's old has been made new again with Restaurant Lasserre, which features a freshened décor that's befitting of this bastion of French gastronomy. The visionary René Lasserre purchased and transformed this space near the Champs-Élysées after the close of the 1937 Paris International Exposition. With its essence of romance, and a ceiling which on clear and balmy nights would open up on the star-studded sky of Paris, this sumptuous mansion became a magnet for the glitterati. The two-story establishment seats 70, with a dining room upstairs and private rooms below. Many illustrious chefs started their apprenticeships here, including Marc Haeberlin, Guy Savoy, Michel Rostang and Jacques Lameloise. Now the kitchen is under the command of chef Christophe Moret --- who hails from the "school" of Alain Ducasse --- and talented pastry chef Claire Heitzler. Diners will find the same menu for dinner as well as lunch (with the addition of a three-course menu déjeuner option). For appetizers, an exotic touch is detected in the langoustines with ginger and lime broth. We also endorse the Brittany lobster with chestnut and pumpkin, and the tender spiced duckling from Dombes (a marshy land near Lyon) cooked with figs. The restaurant's signature dish, the Pigeon André Malraux, has evolved to fit contemporary tastes, with a reduction in the cooking time and the avalanche of foie gras, and balancing the tender squab meat with seasonal vegetables. Heitzler's desserts are delicate and creative; diners might encounter a Guanaja chocolate soufflé crowned with edible gold leaf or pistachio shortbread topped with fresh and partially cooked citrus fruit. The wine cellar, besides housing the grand crus de rigueur, welcomes less prestigious but worthwhile vintages from the Rhône Valley, the Loire Valley, and from the up-and-coming area of Languedoc. The overall experience is masterfully orchestrated by general manager Guillaume Crampon. If you consider yourself an über foodie, you can't pass up a visit here.