 Before it became a restaurant, this century-old log building was first a Pony Express lodge, a hunting lodge, and then a bordello. It has become a favorite destination for Angelenos to escape the city for a romantic dinner or weekend brunch in Malibu Canyon. It is easy to understand why: the unique dining rooms boast rustic fireplaces and beautiful antlered animal heads; there’s a bar bedecked with vintage guns and fishing rods; the upstairs library dining room has a view of the surrounding peaks; and the waterfall on the terrace is bordered by cactus and aromatic plants. Former executive chef Adam Horton has left the restaurant, and chef de cuisine Christopher Kufek now oversees the kitchen. The cuisine is in accordance with the sophisticated mountain retreat feel of the place, like in an amuse-bouche, an heirloom tomato soup with crème fraîche ice cream, or smoked salmon served on a fluffy blini topped with caviar. Continue with the hamachi sashimi served with garlic chips and melon cilantro vinaigrette; the cauliflower soup; or the hand-cut Kobe beef carpaccio, seasoned with piquillo peppers, fried capers and mustard vinaigrette for appetizers. The milieu calls for game for main courses, such as the tender New Zealand elk tenderloin with celery root, grilled ostrich tenderloin "Rossini" or Nebraska buffalo served two ways. Saddle Peak Lodge also does very well with seafood, especially the delicate butter poached lobster with citrus marinated green papaya and roasted line-caught salmon covered with fresh peas. We recommend you end your leisurely meal with the semi-sweet chocolate ganache, the apple terrine with cookie crust or the coffee soufflé. All of the entries on the interesting 50-page wine list, save the sparkling and dessert options, are completely American.
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