 TRU Restaurant Review: A lot has changed on the Chicago dining scene over the last few years --- so much so it’d be easy to wonder if the progressive French fare from this soaring, art adorned dining room is out of date. It’s not. Today, the real force behind TRU is Anthony Martin, the young, executive chef-partner who fully stepped into the role during the summer of 2010. His artful plates and spot-on flavors are striking --- not to mention indulgent. The iconic caviar staircase has been replaced by “coral” caviar, its either white or red tentacles tucked with luxe abalone shells, dolloped with briny, Imperial-rated wild Caspian caviar, Chinese Kaluga or wild golden Iranian osetra, available in ten- or 25-gram servings and served with all the requisite accoutrements. Whether you opt for this upgrade or not, a three-course design-your-own menu or pre-set six- to-nine-course collection can follow. You’d be wise to go with the latter. Standouts include clever white sturgeon “caviar.” The labor-intensive pearls of salty goodness --- the result of gelled, smoked sturgeon, wine and cream --- rest upon avocado mousse and are presented with whimsy in a metal tin. Chilled kohlrabi soup, seemingly humble, arrives on a bed of fog-effect dry ice, its creamy contents --- contained in the cabbage --- hit with curry oil. The dashi flan? It’s lovely, and even more so since it’s topped with nasturtium. What’s more, Duroc pork belly never had it so good. Here, it’s rolled, compressed and topped with crispy pancetta atop a disc of brioche; finished with truffles, dots of aged plum, a tender dumpling and cabbage leaves, it’s a thing of great worth. Of course, it’s good to know you can order dishes à la carte as well. Naturally, Chad Ellegood’s wine list --- over 1,800 bottles strong --- is thoughtfully curated; it’s also witty and playful when need be. (In other words, don’t be surprised if something evokes “salty sea air.”) Dessert-only service is available as a full-table, three-course or à la carte affair, be it a campfire-inspired “s’more,” red pear sorbet atop Valrhona chocolate or Honeycrisp apple beignet.
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TRU Restaurant is one of GAYOT's 2013
| Top 10 Chicago Food Rating Restaurants
| Top 10 Chicago Wine List Restaurants
| Top 10 Chicago French Restaurants
| Top 10 Chicago Special Occasion Restaurants
| Top 10 Chicago Business Restaurants
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Visit the photo gallery of TRU restaurant.
