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Varanese Restaurant Review: An intimate bar, a dining room featuring a stone wall with flowing water, and doors that open onto the sidewalk of fashionable Frankfort Avenue provide the atmosphere in which to enjoy chef John Varanese’s upscale-casual fare. His inspiration is global, so in one meal you may take a culinary world tour with crab-stuffed avocado with jalapeño crème fraîche (Mexico), curried lamb-and-lentil soup (Morocco), beef tips and tortellini (Italy) and mocha crème brûlée (France). Varanese also draws from Kentucky traditions. A double order of the pulled pork and sweet potato biscuit appetizer makes a satisfying entrée. The fried green tomato salad is garnished with local goat cheese, while the bourbon barrel-smoked pork chop is topped with apple-bacon chutney. Not surprisingly, the caramel sauce for the toffee-marshmallow bread pudding contains bourbon. Competent staff is well-versed in the nightly specials, which patrons may also find posted on the restaurant’s website just before opening time. A fine wine list and creative cocktails are on hand to complement the food.