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Varanese Restaurant Review: Chef John Varanese presides over his upscale-casual restaurant that welcomes guests with an intimate bar, an indoor patio featuring a wall of flowing water, and attentive service. The wide-raging menu guarantees that even diners with differing tastes will find something appealing. Favorite starters are the crab-stuffed fried avocado, pulled pork and sweet potato biscuit, and crispy fried calamari with citrus ponzu. The fried green tomato salad with Bibb lettuce and buttermilk dressing is the salad of choice. For dinner, have the bourbon barrel-smoked pork chop, pecan-crusted corvino or the roasted chicken and mushroom ravioli. The chef will also create a vegetarian entrée to order. Do pay attention to the specials; they change nightly and are always worth considering (tender crispy fried quail offered one evening springs to mind). Chocolate lava cake with a warm interior is served with vanilla bean ice cream. There is a fine house cocktail selection and a good wine list to complement the menu.