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Varanese Restaurant Review: Every evening, chef-owner John Veranese offers a long list of dinner specials, from appetizers to desserts. They are always worth sampling, but it’s hard to ignore the menu staples. Make a meal of starters such as the pulled pork and sweet potato biscuit, barbecued duck confit eggrolls, and deep-fried avocado stuffed with crabmeat. The crispy Romaine salad (anchovies optional) is the house take on a Caesar. Caramelized orange bourbon salmon, slow-braised lamb shank, and the bourbon barrel smoked boneless pork chops are excellent entrée choices. (Too bad the mashed potatoes are tarted up with garlic.) Waitstaff is willing to accommodate special requests and advise on cocktails and wine; the list is devoted to big name labels from a variety of regions, but is heavy on California selections. A fair-size dessert wine array is attractive. Chocolate lava cake with vanilla bean ice cream is the go-to dessert. Be warned that the stylish atmosphere, complete with a wall down which a curtain of water flows, is marred by a very high decibel level.