 As the Greek suffix “theque” suggests, Vinoteque on Melrose is a repository of wine, starting with the imposing, curved wooden wine rack filled with vino that nearly reaches the ceiling. The wine list classifies more than two hundred and fifty labels from around the world---ranging from $11 a bottle to over $1,000---into twenty four different regions to help guests choose. Another wine decision to be made is whether to have it by the glass or bottle, as any bottle will be opened with a minimum purchase of two glasses. Vinoteque is not your usual wine bar, since restaurateur Gil Ran decided to serve both full-size plates and small plates. Fitting with the décor, the kitchen, now with executive chef K.C. Ma, prepares casual cuisine, with some sophisticated twists, for a young clientele who enjoy the great outdoor patio as well as the main dining room overlooking Melrose Avenue. Start with the frisée salad with lardons, poached eggs with panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs), the gnocchi in which the sauce is made of Port and Stilton cheese, or the asparagus gratin with saba (reduced grape must). The lobster risotto is tasty, but the fried pancetta on top is unnecessary. We like the pistou made with fresh mussel juice that accompanies the turbot, and the horseradish ice cream on the halibut is interesting, but a tad too sweet. The roasted chicken is served with caramelized Brussels sprouts, while short ribs are on a bed of parsley purée. Finish with the delicious churros and coffee or the mascarpone panna cotta.
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