Jean-Georges Goes Chinese at 66

In a previous life, the Alsatian-born über-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten must have been a Mandarin. Is there any other more credible explanation for his Chinese obsession? Remember, his Asian influences started to show themselves with the creation of Vong. To sound a little bit more Asian, his Franco-Germanic name was amputated of the Teutonic–too guttural–syllables. That made all the difference, and Jean-Georges entered cautiously into the forbidden city of Oriental gastronomy, inventing by the same token fusion cuisine. Now, the never satisfied Jean-Georges, or rather Vong, wants to push his foray into the Eastern gastronomical world much farther and become a full-fledged Chinese restaurateur.

We suspect there has been quite some fung-shui presiding over the birth of 66. The esoteric arithmetical name does not refer to the route that winds its way across the US, it just happens to be the number of the side entrance in the adjacent street. Mostly, though, it's a Chinese lucky number.

Voluptuous curves soften the straight lines of this white, silver and black Zen-like slick décor where the Chinese influence is evident in the red banners floating above a bar so stretched that it seems to evoke Mao's famous long march across the immense country. The bar turns into a banquet table, and guests can watch an improvised shadow show unraveling behind a glass wall separating the main room from the service area played by the waiters running to perform their tasks. The oblong room is cleverly divided into smaller lounges thanks to translucent screens, leaving you with a sentiment of privacy but not isolation. You can watch the action in the kitchen through what in other restaurants would be a fish tank but that we will define here as an aquarium. Shining white China sits on a simple white mat on the glossy tables. Needless to say, all this is done as usual in extremely good taste with Jean-Georges and his architect Richard Meier.

For metaphysical reasons, or because J-G wanted this restaurant to be a real Chinese one, the best way to set the kitchen up was to place a Chinese chef at the helm. The one he found in Beijing is said to be one of the best. Apparently, he's been given a free hand, Jean-Georges minimizing his own Frenchie input. The rest of the story is no surprise. Although teleguided by a Frenchman, 66 is a real Chinese restaurant destined to rank among the top ones in town. It offers authentic Chinese food in a let's call it "global" dressing, whether it is service or décor. The menu is as Chinese as it gets with numbers and simple names for the dishes. The names are simple but not all of the dishes that bring refinements such as a Lily bulb to sustain the prawns accompanied by sweet walnuts. Is it the beginning of a "nouvelle" Chinoise with the subtle intrusion of unusual ingredients and imported techniques as evidenced in the black bass with green tea tempura, or the glazed salmon with kaffir and lime? These incursions probably due to J-G's input are limited and discrete. The core of the menu runs the gamut of the traditional Chinese preparations from spring egg rolls, dim sums, crackling pig with spicy plums, stir-fried noodles, fried rice to tapioca desserts. Although most dishes are well prepared, they do not instantly elevate 66 to a stardom status above all the Chinese eateries of the Big Apple.

In the wine list appear some beautiful Alsatian and Austrian Pinot blancs that marry happily the spicy flavors.

In the experimental phase of 66, the attentive diner can decipher some intriguing trends that J-G will doubtlessly cultivate. It's already a fun place, though, where one wants to return soon.

66 (14/20)
241 Church Street
New York,NY 10013
212-925-0202

Summit at 66 - Although they wanted to keep it quiet, the opening of 66, the new Jean-Georges Vongerichten venue in TriBeCa (Manhattan) turned out to be the gastronomical event of the season in the Big Apple. However, there was no fanfare, no trumpets, no lavish parties to hail the launch of 66. But…On a quiet and snowy night, the young receptionist at 66 hardly noticed among the dining crowd five men who walked in separately for dinner. They sat at different tables but looking around they burst into a gigantic laughter when they saw each other. Its hardly believable, but without coordinating in advance, two of New York's top chefs and three of the most influential food writers had the same idea and ended up among a million other possibilities dining at 66. Our photographer has captured this rare moment when East meets West for an improvised summit; From left to right: Tim Zagat, Daniel Boulud, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Alain Ducasse, Bryan Miller, André Gayot.