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Le Meurice Restaurant Review: Since Hôtel Plaza Athénée has closed its doors for renovations, mega-chef Alain Ducasse has taken over the kitchens of Le Meurice, following the departure of Yannick Alléno. Christophe Saintagne, Ducasse’s lieutenant, is in charge of crafting a French contemporary cuisine with topnotch ingredients. As for the dining room, it remains the same, one of the most beautiful in Paris (not to say the world), facing the Tuileries garden and decked out with marble, bronze, chandeliers, ancient mirrors and frescos. Needless to say that the fare is on par with such a ritzy place. The creed of Ducasse and his team is to showcase the product without altering it too much through combinations of tastes or eccentric textures. First-rate items feature foie gras, scallops with white truffle from Alba, lobster and poultry with Albufera sauce. For a starter, the hot pâté proves to be one of the signature dishes, stuffed with guinea fowl and cabbage and drenched in meat juice. An extraordinary savoir-faire delivers both simplicity and delight as well for the following course. Served with its juice, the calf sweetbread has been cooked, coated with breadcrumbs on one side and filled with tomatoes. A tasteful chocolate biscuit by pastry chef Cédric Grolet with ganache, pistachio and a dash of Guérande salt is sided by a 100 percent cocoa sherbet. Impeccable service and great wines from the well-stocked cellar, such as Gevrey-Chambertin, contribute to the experience. Lunch menu at €130.