The London Bar Restaurant Review
The London NYC
151 W. 54th St. (Sixth & Seventh Aves.)
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New York, NY 10019
212-468-8889
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Cuisine
Open
Breakfast & Lunch daily, Dinner nightlyFeatures
- Private room(s)
- Full bar
- Reservations suggested
- Casual
Wine
Great Wine List* Click here for rating key
If Gordon Ramsay at The London is indeed Hell’s Kitchen, then its more casual companion, The London Bar---where those not savvy enough to score a reservation in the main dining room are relegated---is its purgatory. Despite its name, the room feels more like a retro-American diner than English pub, with its teal and silver accents, brightly-lit mod design and a menu of small plates that hints at what lies on the other side. A carpaccio of tuna and swordfish presents two angelically fresh filets marinated in lime and cucumber with a salty touch of soy; and Gilthead bream, infused with lemon grass and Thai basil, combines nicely with a sumptuous lobster risotto. A hearty lamb cutlet and shoulder combo with bacon, onion and Moroccan ras el hanout is not as exotic as the spicing promises, however, and a peekytoe crab mayonnaise seems more fitting for a picnic than a high-profile chef’s kitchen. But an amaretto panna cotta with butternut squash compote and crushed amaretti biscuits does border on sinful. Overall, the food feels familiar, certainly not as other-worldly as the famous chef’s rep promises. Perhaps this is the British bad-boy’s idea of being down (or rather, up) to earth?
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