Since Patina relocated to the Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall in downtown Los Angeles in 2003, the chefs at the helm of the kitchen have been maintaining Patina’s reputation as the crown jewel of the culinary kingdom created by uber-chef Joachim Splichal. To coincide with the arrival of chef Tony Esnault, who hails from Ducasse and Adour in New York, a few decorative tweaks were made to the room: new upholstery on the banquettes, the impressive wood table wrapping around a central pillar, and the beams lightened from grey to white. Just like at the Hall next door, a performance is put on by the entire staff, from the manager Christian Philippo to the sommelier and the servers, especially when it comes to the “guéridons” with the caviar selections, and the ceremonial cutting of the milk-fed veal rack, and the masterful service of cheeses and teas. Esnault has infused his own style into the cuisine; he loves using fresh seasonal vegetables more than his peers do. See the rings of cucumbers, avocado and apples with the marinated hamachi, where the fish is lightly seasoned to keep its own flavor, or the glazed vegetable mosaic in a beet-root colored “jus de cuisson” finished with lemon oil. Esnault also offers a duck foie gras terrine with Gala apple, quince chutney and toasted country bread. The perfectly butter poached Maine lobster is complemented with endives, salsify, spinach and sauce dolce forte. Esnault has a great source for fresh hearts of palm, so if you are a fan, order the Australian barramundi. Chocoholics will enjoy the gianduja chocolate caramel bar, crunchy peanuts and nougat glacée.
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