Sushi Kaito

Sushi Kaito Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant: Sushi Kaito is a rarity on the Upper West Side – a 12-seat sushiya as intimate as any that you might find in Tokyo with an entrance that’s equally unassuming behind a subtly marked, frosted door. The room seems a tad bright, but that’s okay because you absolutely want to watch the two sushi chefs work their magic with all kinds of fish.

Likes: An upscale omakase choice.
Dislikes: Not easy to get a reservation at a prime time.

Food & Drinks: The only choice you’ll make is whether you prefer a 12-piece ($75) or 16-piece ($100) omakase, and perhaps if you’d like to add a saké from the 10 selections, a Japanese beer, or one of the six wines by the glass to accompany. What unfolds is a procession of beautiful nigiri, with fish largely from Japan, along with a few forays into the waters of Canada, Spain and the U.S. A fairly rigid menu includes black cod (the only cooked fish), ikura, sardine, sea bream, two kinds of tuna, amberjack, uni and more. Each is dressed as the chef knows best, with very little soy sauce, a pinch of salt or charcoal, or drizzles of yuzu. Given the provenance of the fish, the pedigree of the Japanese chefs and the friendly tone of the restaurant, the price of the omakase is actually quite reasonable when compared to other sushiyas in New York City. For the fortunate few who are able to secure a spot at one of the three seatings each night, this is the stuff that sushi dreams are made of. Don’t expect dessert, though. The finale is a hand roll, miso soup and a piece of silky tamago. If you’re still hungry, the chef will offer to make you an additional piece of nigiri.