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Aureole Restaurant Review

One Bryant Park
135 W. 42nd St. Send to Phone
New YorkNY 10036
212-319-1660 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
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Charlie Palmer's landmark of the New York food scene hits 42nd Street.

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Lunch Mon.-Sat., Dinner nightly

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Dining room at Aureole, New York, NYCharlie Palmer has shown a personality of his own forging a New American cuisine and imposing a style that has bred scions throughout the country. From its very beginnings in 1988 in a flower-filled 61st Street brownstone once owned by Orson Welles, Palmer’s Aureole has become a landmark of the New York food scene belonging to the American commonwealth of gastronomy. Today, the “new” Aureole displays its modernity under the lights of bustling 42nd Street between the Bank of America and Condé Nast Publications. This accidental juxtaposition, involuntarily or not, showcases the American icons of money, food and literature. The new Aureole splits its successful modern décor between a large street-front room and a cozy fine dining parlor in the back. Its impressive background requires a daring and experienced chef. Which hitherto has been a hard thing to find. The tenures of Christopher Lee and Christophe Bellanca were cut short for various reasons. But under former sous chef Marcus Ware, diners still might find remnants of past chefs on the menu. The hamachi tuna, for example, is minimally dosed with exotic additions like guava---along with mint, cilantro and pickled red onion---just enough to render it unique. One step further and it would have been a cacophony. The ruby red shrimp with curry meringue, hearts of palm and lime in a coconut jus stays on the sensible side though original, as are the seared scallops in a beurre blanc emphasized by the acidity of citrus fruit tempered by a succulently cooked potato. The menu offerings hit the top with the braised cod. As simple as this fish is, it turns into a rare delicacy that melts in the mouth, ennobled by a touch of sea urchin, while the shiitake chutney, red pepper and sweet onions provide the complementary savors that bring out the taste of the fish. Carnivores can indulge in the beef Napoleon layered with violet artichokes, ricotta and Swiss chard cannelloni in a red wine jus or in a duck confit with minted zucchini, pink praline and plum. Both make you feel that meat can be something else besides just a steak from a pan or a broiler. Conducted by Pierre Poulain, the grand finale cannot be missed. The young pastry chef presents his incredible rhubarb terrine with a strawberry consommé, a meringue and ice cream. Not only is it delightful, it’s a work of art. The service is polished, while wine director Justin Lorenz will expertly guide you through the wine list that is biblical in its scope, including a dozen or so reasonably priced varieties by the glass.

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