Gordon Ramsay at The London
The London NYC
151 W. 54th St. (Sixth & Seventh Aves.) 
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New York, NY 10019
212-468-8888
 Since Gordon Ramsay at The London opened in late 2006, the original chef de cuisine has departed and head chef Gordon Ramsay has now moved on to other ventures. But fortunately for New Yorkers, chef Ramsay has left the day to day operations of his New York flagship in the highly capable hands of Josh Emett. New York diners won’t leave disappointed; neither will foodies familiar with Ramsay’s London twin, as the menus are refreshingly different. Recommended appetizers include a topnotch roasted Hudson Valley foie gras with an almond crust and creamed turnips, nicely finished with a ham gastrique that enlivens the flavor and adds the necessary touch of saltiness. Indeed, much of the cooking under chef Emett achieves flavors that are both subtle and complex, such as the excellent baked fluke with almond bread, celery hearts, cucumber and Concord grapes, finished with a Champagne velouté. The ingredients all work together to produce a light, satisfying dish that doesn’t overwhelm the delicious fluke. For meat dishes, try the classic roasted cannon of lamb served atop a rich-tasting confit shoulder. Lastly, indulge in the apple tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream or the intense mint chocolate fondant; however, the roasted peach with vanilla millefeuille, Amaretto ice cream and praline mousse may be less than satisfying---the parts clearly greater than the whole. Service is superior and thoroughly professional. And if you’ve never before tried Krug or Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, be sure to order a glass before dinner when the Champagne cart rolls your way. |
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