 Gramercy Tavern Restaurant Review: At the entrance, a display filled with fruit, vegetables and flowers sets the tone: cuisine based on sincerity. The rustic décor provides a welcome break from the asphalt jungle's techno tune-filled minimalist eateries. Chef Michael Anthony, formerly of Daniel, and successor to Tom Colicchio, has entered Manhattan chefs aristocracy. In the first, informal room, simpler dishes are served from noon to closing. Anthony presents his full-fledged menus in the more sophisticated back room, where the nonchalant service fits in with the rural look. Impressive are the span and the variety --- based on his finds in the market --- of his offerings, whether they are fish or meat. His tasting menus propose a round-up of flavors. Start with lamb pappardelle accompanied by olives, lemon confit and Swiss chard or the signature smoked trout, delicate and emboldened with a cipollini purée, before moving on to Arctic char with American caviar and cabbage or the baseball-size pork croquette served with red cabbage. In all Anthony's dishes, the emphasis is placed on the vegetable component, which reminds us of the illustrious Alain Passard of L’Arpège fame in Paris, in which the highlight is the ricotta ravioli with butternut squash, Tuscan kale and lardo. Pastry chef Nancy Olson prepares her own sorbets and ice creams as well as a goat’s milk cheesecake and a warm chocolate bread pudding. There is also a well-stocked cheese cart. Uncommon white wines are available such as a Chasselas from Alsace as well as Viogniers and Mourvédre.
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Gramercy Tavern Restaurant is one of GAYOT's 2013
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