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Le Cinq Restaurant Review: After helming the stoves of Ledoyen for twelve years, the Brittany native chef Christian Le Squer now oversees about a hundred people in the kitchen of Four Seasons Hôtel George V. His talent consists of continuing to innovate and surprise his guests with creative dishes, thanks to masterful cooking, original shapes and textures, and perfect combinations of tastes. The regal dining room presents imposing lines, precious carpet and old paintings on the walls, colonnades and huge French windows that face the patio of the hotel. The menu changes progressively, according to seasonal ingredients and new courses the chef wants to highlight alongside his specialties. In winter, expect to be delighted with the black truffle from Richerenches, stuffed in a puffed brioche and drenched in truffle coulis. Onion soup au gratin is likewise spectacular, served as some kind of cromesquis that pop in the mouth. For the principal dish, spaghetti is molded in the shape of a timbale and filled with mushrooms and braised ham, in Parmesan and truffle cream. A dessert named “givré laitier,” a blanc manger made with almonds and black chocolate, delivers a yeast flavor. The sophisticated dishes are paired with appropriate wines from the well-stocked cellar that contains up to 2,800 vintages, tended by director and sommelier Eric Beaumard.