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Le Cinq Restaurant Review: CHEF ERIC BRIFFARD HAS LEFT LE CINQ. CHRISTIAN LE SQUER IS NOW EXECUTIVE CHEF. Who has doubts about the choice of Eric Briffard to command the kitchen of the Four Seasons Hôtel George V---the perfect embodiment of French luxury? Eric's quest for perfection is known to all gourmets. His brilliance, technique and expertise are owed to seven years of touring France and to Joël Robuchon, whose refinement and delicate touch has brought a new standard to presentations. Briffard, the grandson of small farmers who baked their own bread and produced their own nut oil, is at the helm of the largest kitchen team in Europe: 115 cooks, 7 apprentices, 15 sous-chefs and 13 sommeliers---this is quite impressive. Aside from 50 customers in the restaurant, he also oversees room service for 90 to 120 people and the gallery with 200 clients. Seventeen- and eighteen-hour days in the kitchen are not uncommon; six days out of seven, he comes in first and leaves last. His approach consists in getting the best produce in the region, and preparing it with taste and elegance. Try the fresh crab meat or the appetizer of abalone from the Brittany coast with seaweed butter, watercress fondant and hen broth flavored with lemongrass. The course of Normandy scallops with celeriac-black truffle mousseline and green apple rémoulade is a real lesson in freshness and flavors. His saddle of lamb with piment d’Espelette will not disapoint. Desserts, such as the Mont Blanc Georges V with Mandarin sherbet, are also exceptional. Briffard’s collaboration with excellent sommelier and restaurant director Eric Baumard is conducive to the best pairing possible between the wines and the cuisine. Great wine choices start at 19 € by the glass.