 Marea Restaurant Review: It would seem that Michael White can do no wrong. His past restaurants have been successes. Then in 2009 he moved into the pricey Central Park South space that legendary San Domenico fled because of a huge rent increase. White tossed his line in the water anyway and from the taste of the seafood-oriented offerings at Marea, caught the big one. A meal here might best be enjoyed with someone who has a healthy expense account, but it’s worth it; at times Marea’s menu is transcendent. Throw back the caviar and hard-to-find raw fish on the crudo section of the menu and dive into the Italian-accented seafood dishes from the pasta selections: the octopus-and-bone-marrow-laced fusilli is a meal in itself. Main course options might range from grilled Hawaiian swordfish with eggplant, radicchio, watercress, Marcona almonds and apricot to a seared veal chop with gnocchi, roasted garlic spinach, wild mushrooms and crispy sage. Guests can also compose a four-course prix-fixe menu ($99) or request a tasting menu with wine pairings. The wine list is extensive and, despite the high price of a meal here, offers some affordable options.
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