 The Modern Restaurant Review: He's now part of the MoMA's "collection." That is, chef Gabriel Kreuther, lured to The Museum of Modern Art by restaurateur Danny Meyer of Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café fame. Kreuther first appeared on the New York scene as a sous chef at La Caravelle, went on to become the chef de cuisine at Jean-Georges, and performed brilliantly in his first solo at Atelier on Central Park South. Kreuther blossoms on this stage, where art and food reflect one another. Architects Bentel & Bentel created the cool and subdued space of black and white and glass, leaving room for the food to express itself. Meanwhile, the less formal (and more affordable) Bar Room features a rowdy and warm ambience. Hailing from Alsace, Kreuther remains faithful to his roots: mastering the classical fundamentals, uncompromising in his quest for pristine products. Certainly he is not a steward of Escoffier haute cuisine, rather he pursues the integration of new elements from all over, as they are synthesized in New York. Kreuther's talent is to know his limitations, sprinkling or garnishing with just enough novelty. Modern this is, but in moderation. Fresh fine herbs play a major role in Kreuther's cooking, from the coulis dotting the plate of the rabbit terrine with Gewürztraminer and anise to the yuzu-marinated langoustines with tarragon-cucumber salad and lemon gelée. Diners might also encounter dishes like veal sweetbread and mushroom ravioli accented with mustard and vin jaune emulsion or beef tenderloin “à la ficelle” and pressed root vegetables, horseradish and verjus-pickled juniper berries. For a sweet finale, executive pastry chef Marc Aumont might present a milk chocolate and hazelnut dacquoise paired with raspberry sorbet; a pineapple and citrus macaron with balsamic caramel; and a black currant vacherin. More delights follow on the custom-made mignardise cart. The wine list, overseen by wine director Ehren Ashkenazi, is a stronghold for uncommon Alsatian wines as well as Burgundies. A good selection of wines by the glass is available. In the main dining room, at lunch, the two courses and dessert prix-fixe menu runs $55, a steal for such surroundings, food and service.
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The Modern Restaurant is one of GAYOT's 2013
| Top 10 NY Food Rating Restaurants
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Go behind the scenes of The Modern restaurant! Watch our exclusive interview with executive chef Gabriel Kreuther. 
Visit the photo gallery of The Modern restaurant.
Splurging at top-rated restaurants is fun for special events, but where can you go for a good quality meal that won't break the bank? Gather the change out of your piggy bank and sofa cushions and take it to one of our selections for the best cheap eats in your area.
