The Modern Restaurant Review
The Museum of Modern Art MoMA
9 W. 53rd St. (Fifth Ave.)
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New York, NY 10019
212-333-1220 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
The Modern Restaurant is one of our 2012
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Cuisine
Open
Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.Features
- Private room(s)
- Full bar
- Reservations suggested
- Parking garage nearby
- Business casual
Wine
Great Wine List* Click here for rating key
He's now part of the MoMA's "collection." That is, chef Gabriel Kreuther, lured to The Museum of Modern Art by restaurateur Danny Meyer of Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Café fame. Kreuther first appeared on the New York scene as a sous chef at La Caravelle, went on to become the chef de cuisine at Jean Georges, and performed brilliantly in his first solo at Atelier on Central Park South. Kreuther blossoms on this stage, where art and food reflect one another. Architects Bentel & Bentel created the cool and subdued space of black and white and glass, leaving room for the food to express itself. Meanwhile, the less formal (and more affordable) Bar Room next door features a rowdy and warm ambience. Hailing from Alsace, Kreuther remains faithful to his roots: mastering the classical fundamentals, uncompromising in his quest for pristine organic products. Certainly he is not a steward of Escoffier haute cuisine, rather he pursues the integration of new elements from all over, as they are synthesized in New York. Kreuther's talent is to know his limitations, sprinkling or garnishing with just enough novelty. Modern this is, but in moderation. Fresh fine herbs play a major role in Kreuther's cooking, from the coulis dotting the plate of the rabbit terrine with Gewürztraminer and anise to the roasted cobia with toasted sesame seeds, tarragon and jalapeño vinaigrette. Diners might also encounter dishes like a loup de mer soufflé or Long Island duck and foie gras ravioli. For a sweet finale, executive pastry chef Marc Aumont might present Concord grape vacherin with pistachio ice cream and yogurt meringue; a pineapple macaron with balsamic caramel; and miniature ice cream cones. More delights follow on the custom-made mignardise cart. The wine list, overseen by wine director Ehren Ashkenazi, is a stronghold for uncommon Alsatian wines as well as Burgundies. A good selection of wines by the glass is available. In the main dining room, at lunch, the two courses and dessert prix-fixe menu runs $55, a steal for such surroundings, food and service.
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