 Le Bernardin Restaurant Review: Le Bernardin has been a highlight of the New York dining scene since the brother-and-sister team of the late Gilbert and Maguy Le Coze opened the restaurant in 1986. It enlightens diners with what was then, and still is, a revolutionary approach to seafood. A 24-foot triptych painting graces one wall of the brisk and bustling dining room. Tasting menus start at $147 and jump to a steep $332 with wine pairings. Dinner might begin with "almost raw" Scottish salmon, candy-striped beets, pumpernickel croutons and horseradish sauce, followed by a "barely touched" warm scallop “carpaccio” with snow peas and shiitake, and lime-shiso broth. Chef Eric Ripert works his Neptune-like charms with "lightly cooked" main courses such as baked lobster goulash, potato gnocchi and pearl onions. For a quicker (and more affordable) experience, try the $72 three-course meal for lunch; some of the dishes also appear on the dinner menu. For dessert, consider the cheese course of four pieces from a number of selections. If you prefer chocolate, it might appear as Madagascan chocolate ganache, popcorn ice cream and candied peanuts. Le Bernardin maintains a 15,000-bottle, globally sourced wine cellar. Front of the house staff operate in a proper and reserved manner.
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