News for Restaurants in Paris
The Hotel Plaza Athénée has re-opened after closing in October 2013 for a massive renovation. The hotel's restaurants, including Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and Le Relais Plaza, are once again serving guests. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Hôtel Plaza Athénée 25, av. Montaigne, 75008 Paris, 01 53 67 65 00.
Young chef David Toutain, who hails from Normandy, is one of the leaders of a new class of chefs mimicking abstract artists (such as Miró) who cared very little about texture and structure and found their way in abstraction. The minimalist décor features tables and chairs made of raw timber. Meanwhile, the plates are brilliantly colored or plain to match each dish. The bias here is “aesthetics” first, but le tour de force is that the aesthetic choices fit the balance of flavors very well. Colors and shapes underline and enhance the tastes. Lashes of chopped squid form the bed for shallot confit and cébette (a variety of onion) surrounded by spots of ink. Squab comes with red beetroot, multicolored flowers and nasturtium leaves spiced with turmeric. The artist and the gourmand are both satisfied. David Toutain, 29, rue Surcouf, 75007 Paris, 01 45 50 11 10.
Nestled into the mall of the Beaugrenelle quarter, modern brasserie Eclectic features a huge terrace and a décor conceived by a renowned designer, the English-born Tom Dixon. The dining room sprawls over different levels, with alcoves and banquettes facing bay windows. Expect an eclectic fare indeed: oysters, sea bream carpaccio, several steaks including Châteaubriand, a cheeseburger, and even daily suggestions like roasted chicken on Tuesday. Eclectic, Beaugrenelle 2, rue Linois, 75015 Paris, 01 77 36 70 00.
Will, a neighborhood bistro from William Pradeleix, greets patrons in a tiny room endowed with 34 seats and decked out with green banquettes. Expect French favorites with Asian flavors, meticulous presentations and clever seasonings. Depending on the catch of the day, the menu may include veal tataki with beetroots in a consommé, steamed cod with shiitake and green curry, and a simple but tasty chocolate tartlet with praline. Will, 75, rue Crozatier, 75012 Paris, 01 53 17 02 44.
Passiflore, a gastronomic restaurant near the Trocadéro, has recently been replaced by Jérémie. Chef Jérémie Tourdjman has honed his chops with Christian Constant at Le Violon d’Ingres and proposes a refined cuisine in a modern setting. Menu items include lobster raviolis, scallops with zucchini orzotto, poultry with mushrooms and tagliatelles with foie gras, roasted pineapple with ginger sherbet and vanilla millefeuille. Lunch menu at €40. À la carte around €60. Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Tues.-Sat. Jérémie, 33, rue de Longchamp, 75016 Paris, 01 47 04 96 81.
Eric Frechon, chef of the Hôtel Le Bristol, has launched a new restaurant, Lazare. Located inside the Saint-Lazare train station near the Palais Garnier, Lazare is open all day and proposes French specialties. Lazare, Gare Saint-Lazare, 75008 Paris, no phone.News Bytes
Antoine Westermann Expanding to New York?
Word on the street is that Antoine Westermann, the Parisian master of rotisserie chicken (and owner of Paris' Le Coq Rico), is scouting locations in New York City for a restaurant. Details are scant but if true it will add more evidence that rotisserie chicken is the new pork.
New Offerings at Pierre Gagnaire
Pierre Gagnaire restaurant comes with some novelties at its location on rue Balzac in Paris. First, the décor has been renewed, thanks to a collage of hand-written and antique books’ pages on the walls, embellished with animals and cryptic signs drawings. Besides, a table for two has been installed within the kitchen, allowing guests to admire the brigade working during the services. Moreover, a new lunch menu is offered at €85, with five little starters, one course and an assortment of desserts. Pierre Gagnaire, 6, rue Balzac, 75008 Paris, 01 58 36 12 50.
Chef Christian Le Squer has quit Ledoyen, 16 years after his debut in this hallmark restaurant. From now on, he will work at the stoves of ETC., which he owns, and plans to preside over a new gastronomic spot in Paris by the end of the year. Yannick Alléno, who left Le Meurice in 2013, has succeeded him at the helm of Ledoyen. Ledoyen, 1, ave. Dutuit, Paris 75008, 01 53 05 10 00.
Labeled the “luxury hotel of the Left Bank,” Hotel Lutetia has recently closed its doors to undergo three years of renovation overseen by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. Scheduled to reopen in 2017, it will then feature more suites, a spa, patio, jazz club and library destined for cultural meetings. Le Paris, the gastronomic restaurant, is definitely shut down in favor of the brasserie that will be extended to contain 240 seats. Hotel Lutetia, 45, bd Raspail, Paris 75006, 01 49 54 46 46.
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